Gardening by season

Start your own no-dig garden

Janet Luke

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Get ready for spring by starting your own no-dig garden. Janet Luke shows you how to make rich soil with minimal time, spade-work and money.

As we welcome the first months of winter it can sometimes be a challenge to think about growing produce in the garden – yet even in these cold months it’s possible. All plant growth is slower, but on a positive note you will not have squadrons of insect pests such as white cabbage butterfly to contend with.

This time of the year is also traditionally a time of planning. If you want to extend your growing space do it now so that everything is ready for you to leap into spring. Many people are put off creating an edible garden as they think it is too expensive to set up. Indeed this can be the case but with a few cunning methods you can actually create a wonderful productive garden for free. In the last issue of Green Ideas I talked about saving your own seeds. This month I will share with you how I build my gardens for free.

The no-dig method

I make all my edible garden beds using the ‘no-dig’ method. There are several reasons for this. It is easy; it is cheap but most importantly it is a lazy way of gardening!

No-dig gardening is a system of layering organic material as if you are copying nature. Imagine a forest floor with layers of fallen organic matter slowly decomposing – that’s what you are trying to emulate. This system requires no digging or weeding, plus it is an organic process using materials that can be sourced around your home or neighbourhood. All you need is lots of newspaper or cardboard, compost, grass clippings, leaves, untreated sawdust, straw, seaweed, animal manure or any other organic material you can lay your hands on.

I feel these gardens particularly suit an urban garden as some of these areas have a dubious past with a history of horticulture or heavy industry. If the soil has been contaminated, by building a garden on top of this undisturbed soil you are not putting any potential food in contact with harmful chemicals. As with everything there are of course pros and cons with this sort of garden bed.

With a no-dig garden in a raised bed, the positives include:

  • fertile soil
  • less bending over
  • the soil will warm faster in spring which means you can plant earlier
  • it gives a neat and contained edge to a garden

Some of the negatives are:

  • the soil is very free draining so will dry out quickly
  • it does require some man power to build them (though as I will describe, not necessarily any money!)

Step-by-step: How to build a no-dig garden

Step 1: Create an edge

An edge is not compulsory but it keeps the soil contained and makes it all look neater. You can use any material, such as bricks, river stones, untreated timber or even large blocks of firewood.

Step 2: Lay newspaper or cardboard

If you are creating a garden over grass it is not necessary to spray weed killer over the area as the grass will die anyway – and remember we want to grow organically. Put down thick layers of wet newspaper. The layers need to be at least eight pages thick. Use normal newsprint; avoid glossy coloured pages. Cardboard, flattened boxes, old woolen blankets or natural-fibre carpet can also be used. Make sure the layers of newspaper are interlaced so that no soil is showing. Wet the paper with a hose as you lay it.

Step 3: Create layers

The next step is to add layers of organic material to build the garden to the required height. As you place each layer, remember to wet thoroughly with a hose, as it needs water to function properly – though avoid getting it too soggy. A handful of blood and bone or animal manure should also be scattered over each layer. Keep layers about 10cm thick and if possible alternate green matter with brown matter. Green matter is generally nitrogen rich and includes hedge clippings, weeds, grass clippings, vegetable peelings, mushroom compost and seaweed. Brown matter is carbon rich and includes pea straw, shredded newspaper, pine needles, small twigs, fallen leaves and untreated sawdust. Ultimately any organic matter can be used, but it is important to include grass clippings or animal manure as they are high in nitrogen and start the composting and breakdown of all these materials into soil.

Step 4: Lay a final compost layer

A final layer of about 10cm of weed-free, well-rotted compost provides an instant growing medium for your plants. – though if you are in no rush to plant you can let the garden sit for two months and let nature turn these newly constructed layers into rich compost. The soil will sink over time as the organic matter rots down and turns into compost to feed your plants. Just keep adding organic matter to the area in the form of weed-free mulch. This replaces and builds the soil while keeping weeds at bay. I use straw, sheep wool dags, pine needles or used coffee grounds for this.

Planting now

  • Brassicas such as kale, Brussels sprouts and broccoli
  • Spring onions
  • Winter lettuces such as cos
  • Carrots
  • Swedes and turnips
  • Broad beans
  • Peas
  • Spinach

Harvesting now

  • Peas may be ready to begin harvesting now – pick the plumpest ones to shell. I always give the shells to my rabbits and chickens as a special treat but you can always return these to the compost or worm farm. Even if you haven’t grown the snow pea variety you can still harvest a few of the youngest ones and use the pod as well in a stir fry. Remember that peas are legumes so help to add nitrogen to the soil. Plan to grow some leafy greens such as brassicas in their place once they are harvested. The extra nitrogen in the soil will help these greedy plants get off to a roaring start.
  • Keep harvesting your winter lettuce and mesclun. I often just harvest the outside leaves of my cos lettuce if I only need a few leaves for a sandwich.
  • The first of the winter broccoli may also be ready. If you have grown the sprouting variety, rather than the heading type, you can snap the outside florets off and allow the plant to keep growing.
  • Dig up any carrots that are mature. If you have had a recent frost this will make them sweeter. Don’t be alarmed if some of your carrots have longitudinal splits down them. This can be caused by erratic moisture. Long periods of rain after a drought will do this. They are still fine to eat.